‘Norway in a Nutshell’ – the scenic way to travel between Oslo & Bergen

They say the journey is as important as the destination, and that’s certainly true of my recent trip to Bergen on the west coast of Norway. My annual girls’ getaway with my friend Becky, it was originally planned as a simple city break but turned into something much more exciting when we realised that inconvenient flight times meant we’d have to travel via Oslo on the way out. Rather than transfer straight onto another plane, we decided to use it as an opportunity to do ‘Norway in a Nutshell’ – a classic itinerary that connects Oslo and Bergen by public train, boat and bus, taking in dramatic lakes, mountains and fjords along the way.

‘Norway in a Nutshell’ can be done in a single day or spread over two or more, with overnight stops on route. As we were doing it as part of a short break, we covered off the whole thing in one go – an incredible 12-hour trip encompassing five different legs that will linger in my memory for a very long time. Read on for an account of our experience, along with my tips for making the most of the journey if you decide to embark on it yourself…

Leg one: Oslo to Myrdal by train

After spending a night in Oslo, we began our journey to Bergan at 8.25am the next morning by boarding the Bergensbanen – the 496km-long rail line that runs between the two cities. One of Europe’s highest railways, it crosses Norway’s central highlands and is often ranked among the most scenic train rides in the world. 

Leaving the Norwegian capital, we passed through commuter towns and the city of Drammen, before the train started to climb. Rolling farmland dotted with red-painted barns gradually gave way to steep, forested slopes and mirror-like lakes, and soon the first snow-capped mountains popped up on the horizon. As we ascended ever further, spring turned to winter and pockets of snow began to appear along the trackside. By the time we reached the vast Hardangervidda plateau – the most elevated section of the line, reaching a height of 1,237m – the entire landscape around us was blanketed in white, with only the occasional isolated cabin to break things up. It was breathtakingly, otherworldly beautiful, in places the ground merging seamlessly into the sky, and I found myself marvelling at how anyone had managed to build a railway across such a harsh wilderness.

You can of course take the Bergensbanen all the way to Bergen, but we left it at the remote station of Myrdal, set on the western edge of the Hardangervidda plateau about five hours from Oslo.

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Leg two: Myrdal to Flåm by train

At Myrdal we changed onto the iconic Flåmsbana – the steepest standard-gauge railway in Europe, and another world-renowned train line. The services are timed to connect with each other and use adjacent platforms, so it was a quick and easy process, with just long enough to grab a coffee from the station kiosk. 

Built between 1924 and 1940, the Flåmsbana was once a vital transport link for local communities but is now mainly used by tourists. It runs from Myrdal (elevation: 887m) down to the fjord-side village of Flåm (elevation: 2m) – a journey of only 20km, but one that takes almost an hour due to the gradient and many tight curves.

The train began to drop almost as soon we pulled out of Myrdal, passing through a series of tunnels and snow shelters before swooping along a horseshoe bend with spectacular views in every direction. As we continued to wind downwards, we passed tumbling turquoise rivers, cascading waterfalls and tiny villages clinging precariously to the slopes, with information screens and commentary in several languages pointing out landmarks along the way. 

At one point the train paused for five minutes at the 225m-high waterfall of Kjosfossen – normally a thundering spectacle, but not at its full force during our visit as the higher snow had yet to melt. There was time to disembark for a closer look, and as we did an actress dressed as a huldra (a seductive forest spirit in Scandinavian folklore) emerged from a ruined hut by the water to dance and sing. It’s a performance that happens for every passing train during the warmer months, and to be honest I can’t decide if it’s beautiful or naff (probably a bit of both), but it certainly makes for some interesting photos. 

Eventually the line levelled out, and we followed a wide, meadow-lined valley for the final few km into Flåm itself. 

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Leg three: Flåm to Gudvangen by boat

Once we arrived in Flåm, ‘Norway in a Nutshell’ signs guided us from the station to the nearby quayside, where our next mode of transport, a boat to the village of Gudvangen, awaited. 

The two-hour sailing took us along the dramatic glacier-carved Aurlandsfjord and Nærøyfjord, which together form a Unesco-listed World Heritage Site. The boat runs on electric power, with no noise or emissions, making for a wonderfully serene experience. The fjords gradually narrowed as we glided silently along the water, with near-vertical peaks towering above us on either side. Every now and then, we floated past tumbling waterfalls, picture-perfect wooden churches and colourful villages (some only accessible by water) huddled on the shoreline.

We spent most of the time outside, where there’s plenty of deck space but no seating. If you’d prefer to relax in comfort, panoramic windows mean you won’t miss out on the views even from the lounges and café inside.

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Leg four: Gudvangen to Voss by bus

When the boat docked in Gudvagen at the head of Nærøyfjord, we found a bus already waiting to take us on the 50-minute drive to the large regional town of Voss. 

Sadly I don’t have images of this leg of the journey, as it proved impossible to photograph through a moving bus window. So, you’ll have to take my word that it was a beautiful ride, taking us past remote farmsteads, yet more waterfalls and lakes with waters so deep and calm that they almost looked black. I’m told the drive is even better in the summer months, when the bus is routed over the Stalheimskleiva mountain pass, famous for its 13 dizzying hairpin turns, rather than through a tunnel beneath it. 

Leg five: Voss to Bergen by train

The bus dropped us outside Voss railway station, where we rejoined the Bergensbanen for the final part of our journey. It takes about an hour and twenty minutes and isn’t quite as spectacular as the preceding legs, but for much of the time the line follows the shore of Veafjorden, so there’s still plenty to gaze at through the train window. 

We finally pulled into Bergen station at 8.38pm, tired and ready to stop moving, but at the same time sad that such an amazing journey had come to end. 

How to book ‘Norway in a Nutshell’ 

We booked our trip through Fjord Tours – a licensed operator which has trademarked the ‘Norway in a Nutshell’ name. It arranged tickets for each leg of the journey and sent us everything in a single, handy email. 

As the ‘Norway in a Nutshell’ itinerary uses public transport throughout, it’s also possible to book each segment independently (the trains and bus via national operator VY, and the boat via Norway’s Best). This is often much cheaper, but the difference for the day we travelled was negligeable (around £10 each), so we opted for the convenience of sorting everything out in one go. Do check prices for your dates, though, as you could save yourself a lot of money. 

Breaking the journey

Although we did the journey in one day, I’d recommend splitting it into two and spending a night somewhere on route if you can. Most people who do this choose Flåm, but I’d suggest opting for Gudvangen (shown below) instead. It’s much quieter and less touristy, with a beautiful location and a couple of hotels [AD – affiliate link]. 

I also love the idea of staying in the car-free hamlet of Finse (below) – the highest station on the Bergensbanen, a couple of stops before Myrdal if you’re coming from Oslo. Here, the historic Hotel Finse 1222 offers quietly luxurious interiors, a renowned restaurant and breathtaking views over the Hardangervidda plateau. 

Other route options 

We travelled from Oslo to Bergen, but of course you can do the same route in reverse, starting in Bergen and ending in Oslo. Departure and arrival times are similar whichever direction you choose, so neither is better than the other – it just depends which fits best with your wider itinerary. 

It’s also possible to do part of ‘Norway in a Nutshell’ as a round trip from Bergen. This involves taking the train from Bergen to Myrdal, then looping back via the Flåmsbana, the boat, the bus and the train from Voss. You’ll still see the fjords and some of the mountains, but it does mean missing out on the stunning scenery between Oslo and Myrdal. 

Another option is to stay on the Bergensbanen the entire way between Oslo and Bergen, without changing onto any other transport. This takes seven hours rather than 12, so it’s useful if time is very tight – and it’s still a beautiful journey, even without the Flåmsbana and the boat. As well as daytime trains, there are night services with lie-flat beds and private cabins, but of course you won’t see anything while you’re asleep.  

The best time year to do ‘Norway in a Nutshell’

Scenery-wise, there’s no ‘bad’ time to do the journey, as you’ll be treated to stunning natural beauty in any season. Summer brings lush landscapes and surging waterfalls, autumn paints the fjords in fiery colours, and winter transforms everything into a magical snow-covered wonderland. 

That said, bear in mind that June, July and August are peak times, with crowds and prices to match. November to March is much quieter and cheaper, but there’s a slight risk of transport disruption due to weather. Daylight hours are also severely reduced, so you’ll likely be doing some of the journey in darkness. 

We travelled in shoulder season (early May) and got the best of everything. The mountains were still covered with snow, but the lower slopes were awash with green. Transport was busy but not excessively so, and the sun didn’t set until long after we’d arrived in Bergen. 

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A few other tips

• All modes of transport along the way have places to stow luggage, but if you want to make your journey as hassle-free as possible it’s worth booking a courier service. We did just that, for a cost of NOK595 (around £45) each. Our cases were picked up from the front desk of our hotel in Oslo early in the morning and were waiting for us at our Bergen hotel when we arrived that evening. Not having to wheel them around made the day much easier, and we noticed that the luggage racks on the trains filled up very quickly. If you’re arranging your trip via Fjord Tours, you can add luggage transfers to your booking; if you’re doing things independently, try Porter Service. 
• For the best views, try to reserve seats on the left-hand side of the train from Oslo to Myrdal (or the right-hand side if you’re doing the journey in the opposite direction).
• Seat reservations aren’t possible on the Flåmsbana, so you’ll have to take your chances. The left-hand side from Myrdal down to Flåm (or the right-hand side if you’re travelling from Flåm up to Myrdal) is slightly better for views, but there’s not much in it. 
• The bus journey from Gudvangen to Voss also has unreserved seating, but again there isn’t a bad choice view-wise. We sat at the very front, directly behind the driver, so we could see as much as possible through the windscreen. The downside of this, however, was very restricted legroom – we both felt as if we had to unfold ourselves when we arrived in Voss! 
• The train from Voss to Bergen has the best views on the right-hand side (or the left-hand side if you’re travelling in the opposite direction). Keep in mind that if you’re covering off the whole ‘Norway in a Nutshell’ itinerary in one day and travelling in winter, it will likely be dark for this segment of the journey no matter which direction you travel in, as the sun doesn’t rise until after 9am and sets again between 4pm and 5pm. 
• If you arrange tickets independently via VY, you can select your seats on trains with reserved seating when you book. If you book through Fjord Tours, however, they will be allocated automatically and can be quite random – on the Oslo to Myrdal leg, for example, we were originally given two aisle seats a couple of rows away from each other. You can log back into your booking and change seats afterwards if needed, and it’s worth doing this straight away as some trains sell out very quickly. 
• Take some snacks and water with you. There’s usually a dining car on the Bergensbanen, but on the day we travelled the normal intercity train had been swapped for a regional set without one, so we were glad to have our own food. There’s no catering at all on the Flåmsbana, but the boat to Gudvangen has a good café serving sandwiches, drinks and hot meals. We couldn’t resist treating ourselves to some wine to sip as we watched the scenery slip slowly past!
• Flåm is a popular stop on Norwegian fjord cruises and the Flåmsbana gets extremely busy on days when there’s a big ship in port. It’s worth timing your journey to avoid these if you can, as you’ll have a much quieter experience – and a much better chance of getting a good seat! You can check when cruise ships are due to dock months in advance via the Flåm port website. 
• Take lots of layers on the journey, as the weather in Norway can change in an instant. You’ll definitely want to wrap up warm to stand on the boat deck, which can be chilly even in spring and summer. 

Please note this post contains affiliate links (all clearly marked), which means I will receive a small commission on any resulting bookings. You won’t pay any more by clicking on these links than you would by visiting the websites directly, and it helps to support the free content I create here.

All photography by Abi Dare

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